Industrial Shelving

I feel like we live at Home Depot. Our relationship with Home Depot is similar to most people’s relationship with Target. You come for one thing and you end up leaving with 100. The guy at the paint counter and I are on a first name basis. He’s the man. So last weekend, during our 9th trip to Home Depot of the week, we were looking for some wood to build shelving in our Master Bath and we saw these industrial pipe kits on sale. So immediately the wheels in my little DIY mind start turning. Brian was intrigued and then all of a sudden it was like he knew. He knew we came to do one shelving project and were going to leave with two. So here’s what this corner of our bathroom looked like to start with:


The tile on the wall is NY SoHo tile from a whole sale tile place a few miles from our home. The Master Bath is by far my favorite room in the house and the largest transformation so far. I’m actually really surprised that its taken me this long to decorate.

Here’s the packaging and how the mount was organized. Everything we needed to hang the flange was included right inside this package. Stuff like this makes my heart dance. There’s no need to run around and figure out what kind of anchor you need or if you have the correct kind of screw.

I used the Ryobi Compact Laser Level to hang the mounts. This gadget is seriously worth every penny. I use it to hang stuff all the time!


So once I got the level set, I took the wall flange and drew circles in the holes so I would know where to drill.

Buying wood at Home Depot is super easy! They even cut it for you, if you don’t have a table saw at home you don’t have to worry about fitting it in your car. Originally Home Depot cut the wood, but we needed to take a little more off when we saw how oversized it looked on the wall. I stained it using Minwax Honey and let it dry overnight.

Here’s the styled final product! I made the sign with a scrap piece of wood I had!


Foyer Update

It’s amazing what some paint will do to a room. We have this sandy off-white paint on every wall in our house. I think the bank that owned the house paid a very sloppy contractor to come in and paint over everything. The off-white color isn’t even a pretty egg-shell color. It almost looks like they used an old can of white paint and didn’t mix it all the way. It looks yellow next to the white trim. Sometimes I swear I can see inconsistencies on the walls. Here’s what the foyer looked:


I also could not stand the color of the wood on this door. So everything in the foyer got a nice facelift! I LOVE dark wood stains. So I used the same wood stain, Kona, from our Half Bath Reno.

Taping all of those windows was really annoying but it made cleaning the glass a lot easier! I’m thinking about doing a mercury glass effect on them. The contractor that installed them got glue ALL OVER the glass and I can’t get it off!

Here’s the new look!


The stair rail got an update too! Check out the details here.

I found the most perfect little table to go under the mirror also. Check out the details on the mid century side table up cycle here.


Wood Spool Serving Table

This is one of my favorite up-cycles to date! The best part was it was free! I made friends with a construction worker at a local site. He gave me two matching spool for absolutely nothing. Here’s what I was working with:


It was HEAVY. Probably around 60-70 lbs, but very awkward to handle. Wear gloves while handling, you can avoid A LOT of splinters.

What you’ll need:

  • Sander
  • Stain (color of your choice)
  • Stain Brushes
  • Furniture Wax


  • 4×4 wood to cover diameter
  • 4 castor feet
  • 5 inch wood screws
  • Wood drill bit longer than 5 inches

Get it in a place that you’re going to be able to work on it for about 24 hours. I did this on my driveway.

If there are nails sticking up take a hammer and pound them into the wood so they are flush and not a danger to anyone.

Sand down all the surfaces of the wood that you want to stain. GO WITH THE DIRECTION OF THE WOOD! If you go against it you’re going to create a ton of splinter patches. Make sure that you’re sanding down all the rough areas really well. It took me about an hour to sand the spool. I also used different grades of sand paper, starting with 50 over the whole surface and went back and ended with 120 over the entire surface again.

Ready to stain! I used MinWax Wood Finish Honey Stain. It was darker than the sample appeared, but so much beautiful than I anticipated.

There are brushes specifically for staining available. I would definitely recommend using a brush instead of a sock. The wood is very coarse and a sock definitely won’t last.


Since the stain was darker than I thought it was going to be, I only did one coat, additional coats may need to be applied if you choose something really light.


After the whole spool was stained I let it sit overnight to dry. Check the weather, if it’s going to rain you’re doing to need to store it in a dry place.

When I came back the next morning everything looked perfect. It was completely dry and ready to be waxed. I used Johnson Paste Wax furniture wax from Home Depot. Use a new sponge to apply a thin coat of wax to all the surfaces that were stained. This will help seal up some of the wood while protecting the wood from future spills or condensation from glasses that may be placed on top.

We wanted a little more height on our spool, so we added a little lift with a 4×4 piece of wood and castor feet to make it more mobile.


We cut the wood about an inch shorter than the diameter of the spool on each side to avoid a ton of it being seen. Make sure it’s mostly in the middle of the spool to support stability. You may have to maneuver it around some of the bolts in the center. This isn’t an exact science, look at the area you have to work with and make adjustments.

Mark off how deep you will need the drill bit to be inserted. We used a sharpie to make sure we were drilling down to the same point for each screw. DO NOT TOUCH THE TIP OF THE DRILL BIT AFTER YOU USE IT. It was so hot, I burned my fingers. Seriously.

Its easier to drill one hole and then screw the 4×4 at opposite ends rather than drill all the holes and then go back and screw them all in. It may take a little longer this way, but there’s nothing more frustrating than making a ton of holes and not being able to match them up. I recommend doing two screws at opposite ends to secure the wood first, then make 6 additional holes.

To fully support the spool, you’ll need make an X with the 4×4 under the spool. Repeat the same process with 2 smaller pieces of wood that will be perpendicular to the first.

After the 4×4’s have been secure, you’re ready to add the castor feet. Place the plate on the 4×4 and mark off where you’ll need to drill.


When you’ve finished you’re drilling, put the castor back on and line it up with the 4 holes. Put a screw in each hole and drill a quarter of the way down. Don’t do the whole an entire nail at a time so you have space to adjust if needed.


Once they’re all in you’re finished!

Here’s the almost-finished product:


I’ll be going back and staining the ends of the 4×4 so they don’t look so raw next to the finished spool.

Enjoy hosting gatherings with this awesome server!

May 2017 Update:


Half Bath Reno

We have a 2.5 bath house. This 1/2 bathroom was more like a .25 bath. Completely bland and totally unappealing. I saw a fun post on Pinterest that had a ton of color and lots of natural wood that inspired me to transform our bathroom.

Here’s the final result:

Here was what we were up against:

Here’s how it’s done!

What you’ll need:

  • 1 Willing husband (this is typically a necessity for me)
  • Small table saw or really good hand saw
  • Sander
  • Nail gun
  • Old sock or stain sponge
  • 3 different color stains
  • 3 different sized woods (this is up to you. I like the mix and match look)
  • Behr paint and painters tape
  • Knobs of choosing for cabinets (depends on your design choice)

The Vanity:

You’ll need to sand down the cabinets until it’s a smooth surface and the outer coating or wax has been removed.

Stain sponges can be a few dollars. An old sock that is missing it’s partner will work just as well. I chose a stain that I planned on using on the accent wall so everything tied together. use the sock to coat the cabinet. I used 3 coats to make sure I covered by surface and got a consistent color throughout. Wait 15 mins between coats.

When it’s completely dry install your hardware of choice!

The Wood Accent Wall:

We got 3 different width planks from Home Depot to add character to the wall . I wanted all pine wood so it absorbed the stain in the same way and had the same veining in the wood. Before Brian cut the wood, I grouped different pieces based on the color I wanted them to be stained, to ensure there would be a variety of widths and colors.

After a few coats of stain I handed the project over to Brian. He measured the wall to find out the length of wood we would need to cover the wall from side to side. Cut the pieces as you go, don’t try and do a ton of math and figure it all out ahead of time. That can get confusing and you can end up with a ton of little pieces that look choppy instead of fluid. Start at the top left and work your way down to the bottom right.

We used a Ryobi nail gun. It’s awesome. It’s the easiest way to install the wood planks. Please be careful using powertools!